Recap guide

Recap the Nintendo GameCube

The optical drive board is the usual cap victim, causing disc read errors, and the mainboard and DC-DC boards are good preventive jobs.

Open the interactive checklist Tick off each capacitor as you replace it. It saves in your browser.

Check first. A recap is not always the answer here, so look at the guides before you order parts.

Which board do I have?

Boards changed during production. These notes come from the linked sources, and many are only partly documented, so check the board in front of you.

• DOL-CPU(P)-01 mainboard (2002 example) (Medium confidence). How to tell: Board id printed on the mainboard, as given in a Retro Repairs log. Capacitors: Retro Repairs lists six SMD electrolytics on the mainboard (C1 and C3 33 uF 25V, C2 220 uF 25V, C115, C116, C118 10 uF 16V), four 1000 uF 6.3V polymer parts on the DC-DC board and ten 47 to 220 uF caps at 4 to 6.3V on the optical board, and says production variants have different values and locations. Capacitor list differs from other revisions: yes. Source

Where to start

Clues from write-ups and forum threads, not a diagnosis. Low confidence means one thread or one repair; high means several write-ups agree.

• Disc read errors (Medium confidence). One restoration log says the cause is usually the caps, not the laser, and revived all four dead drives by recapping the optical board. Source
• Values for one board set (Medium confidence). One write-up gives values for a DOL-CPU(P)-01 mainboard, a DC-DC board and the optical board. Source
• Dead caps workaround (Low confidence). An iFixit guide gives a five-step fix for dead caps on the optical drive board, without naming which parts. Source

Tips, tales and maybes

Found in write-ups and forum threads. These are other people's reports, not tested by us. Check part references and values against your own board.

• Watch out: Recap did not revive every drive (Medium confidence). A Hitman's Museum log recapped two spare DOL-001 optical drives and only one came back. The other would move the laser but not spin the disc, and a meter read 30 ohms across the motor where the working one read open, pointing at a dead motor rather than caps. Source
• Tip: Optical board recap is common practice (Low confidence). Hitman's Museum's disc-read-error index lists many GameCube jobs (Pearl White, Silver, Spice Orange, DOL-101 PAL and two XenoGC units) where the optical drive PCB and sometimes the PSU were recapped as routine maintenance. It is a pattern across one author's logs rather than a controlled result. Source
• Story: Game Boy Player: leaks and corrupted boot graphics (Medium confidence). A Hitman's Museum log on two Game Boy Players (DOL-017) says they were the first units where he could smell real leaking caps. Symptoms included corrupted graphics at boot and oxidised cartridge slots, and a Console5 SMD kit plus slot cleaning fixed them. Source
• Watch out: Heatsink can shear parts off (Medium confidence). A restoration write-up says GameCube mainboard leaks have not been reported, while the optical board caps commonly drift (lower capacitance, higher ESR) and cause disc read faults. It also warns that removing the heatsink carefully matters, since if it flies off sideways it can shear small parts off the mainboard, and suggests a hairdryer to loosen the thermal pads. Source

Before you start

• Boards changed during production. Check your board number against the guides before you order parts.

Guides we used

This page and the interactive bench are built from these. They have the photos and the full detail, so please read them and support their authors.

• 2002 Nintendo GameCube restoration and modifications (Write-up) by Adam Wilson (Retro Repairs & Refurbs). Has a capacitor list. Values for a DOL-CPU(P)-01 mainboard, DC-DC board and optical board. Site states all rights reserved, so link only
• Silver GameCube restoration (Write-up) by hitmanmcc. All four dead drives revived by recapping the optical board, a strong data point
• Nintendo GameCube dead/dying capacitor workaround (Step-by-step) by Fixer of Stuff (iFixit). Five-step fix for dead caps on the optical drive board; does not name which parts

GameCube NTSC DOL-CPU-01, DOL-CPU-10, C/DOL-CPU-11, C/DOL-CPU-20

Eight capacitors. Console5 also lists polymer capacitors on this board (DC1 330 uF 4 V, DC2 330 uF 4 V, DC3 100 uF 6 V, DC4 150 uF 4 V). It says they are typically lifetime parts, gives them for reference only and leaves them out of its kits, so they are not in this checklist.

GameCube NTSC C/DOL-CPU-30

Seven capacitors. Console5 also lists polymer capacitors on this board (DC1 330 uF 4 V, DC2 330 uF 4 V, DC3 100 uF 6 V, DC4 150 uF 4 V). It says they are typically lifetime parts, gives them for reference only and leaves them out of its kits, so they are not in this checklist.

GameCube NTSC C/DOL-CPU-50, C/DOL-CPU-60

Three capacitors. Console5 also lists polymer capacitors on this board (DC1 330 uF 4 V, DC2 330 uF 4 V, DC3 100 uF 6 V, DC4 150 uF 4 V). It says they are typically lifetime parts, gives them for reference only and leaves them out of its kits, so they are not in this checklist.

GameCube PAL C/DOL-CPU(P)-01

Six capacitors.

GameCube PAL C/DOL-CPU(P)-10

Five capacitors.

GameCube PAL C/DOL-CPU(P)-20

One capacitor.

GameCube DC/DC board Mitsumi LSJB1091-1 (GCMK-MIX / GMKY-MIX)

Four capacitors. Console5 says a version of these exists with only three capacitors, exact revision unknown, where C5 is a coil (L5).

GameCube DC/DC board Sharp DUQ1230A

One capacitor. Only the aluminium electrolytic is listed. Console5 says this board mixes hybrid polymer capacitors (green text) with one aluminium electrolytic at C57. The hybrids (C29 390 uF 6 V, C48 100 uF 6 V, C63 390 uF 6 V) are left out.

GameCube power supply (100-120 V) LSJB1026-1, -2, -3

Mains-voltage supply. The big primary capacitor can hold a dangerous charge, so only work on it if you know how to discharge it safely. Seven capacitors.

GameCube power supply (100-120 V) Mitsumi Type 1

Mains-voltage supply. The big primary capacitor can hold a dangerous charge, so only work on it if you know how to discharge it safely. Seven capacitors. Console5 has no version markings to go on, so it calls the two Mitsumi supplies Type 1 and Type 2. Type 1 has a 200 uF main filter capacitor, with no shielding over the circuits. Its list shows C2 as 200 uF 220 V, and Console5 says it may really be 220 uF.

GameCube power supply (100-120 V) Mitsumi Type 2

Mains-voltage supply. The big primary capacitor can hold a dangerous charge, so only work on it if you know how to discharge it safely. Seven capacitors. Console5's Type 2 has a 220 uF 250 V main filter capacitor and shielding that covers much of the board.

GameCube power supply (100-120 V) TDK 3EA00E368

Mains-voltage supply. The big primary capacitor can hold a dangerous charge, so only work on it if you know how to discharge it safely. Six capacitors.

GameCube power supply (100-120 V) Zebra AA 925-4001H

Mains-voltage supply. The big primary capacitor can hold a dangerous charge, so only work on it if you know how to discharge it safely. Five capacitors.

GameCube power supply (100-120 V) Zebra AA 925-4201E

Mains-voltage supply. The big primary capacitor can hold a dangerous charge, so only work on it if you know how to discharge it safely. Five capacitors. Console5 says its kits may use up to 220 uF at C2 and 47 uF at C9.

GameCube power supply (100-120 V) Zebra AA 925-4401AC

Mains-voltage supply. The big primary capacitor can hold a dangerous charge, so only work on it if you know how to discharge it safely. Six capacitors. Console5 says its kits may use up to 220 uF at C2 and 47 uF at C9.

GameCube power supply (220-240 V) LSJB1094-1

Mains-voltage supply. The big primary capacitor can hold a dangerous charge, so only work on it if you know how to discharge it safely. Seven capacitors.

GameCube power supply (220-240 V) Zebra AA925-4101C, AA925-4101DC

Mains-voltage supply. The big primary capacitor can hold a dangerous charge, so only work on it if you know how to discharge it safely. Five capacitors.

GameCube optical board A-1, B-1 through A-4, B-4

Ten capacitors.

GameCube Game Boy Player DOL-GBS-01, DOL-GBS-10, DOL-GBS-20

Six capacitors.

Shopping list

106 capacitors in all, grouped by value. Buy a few spares.

• 12 x 10 µF, 16 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 9 x 1200 µF, 16 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 7 x 220 µF, 6.3 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 5 x 47 µF, 4 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 5 x 1000 µF, 6.3 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 4 x 33 µF, 25 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 4 x 100 µF, 6.3 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 4 x 220 µF, 25 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 4 x 680 µF, 16 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 4 x 2200 µF, 16 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 3 x 10 µF, 35 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 3 x 33 µF, 6.3 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 3 x 330 µF, 16 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 2 x 1 µF, 50 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 2 x 10 µF, 25 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 2 x 39 µF, 35 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 2 x 47 µF, 50 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 2 x 47 µF, 25 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 2 x 100 µF, 16 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 2 x 100 µF, 25 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 2 x 150 µF, 200 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 2 x 220 µF, 10 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 2 x 330 µF, 25 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 2 x 1000 µF, 16 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 1 x 4.7 µF, 50 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 1 x 22 µF, 50 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 1 x 33 µF, 16 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 1 x 47 µF, 16 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 1 x 47 µF, 400 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 1 x 47 µF, 6.3 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 1 x 56 µF, 35 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 1 x 82 µF, 400 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 1 x 120 µF, 35 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 1 x 120 µF, 25 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 1 x 180 µF, 200 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 1 x 200 µF, 220 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 1 x 200 µF, 200 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 1 x 220 µF, 250 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 1 x 220 µF, 4 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 1 x 270 µF, 200 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 1 x 1800 µF, 25 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay

Console5 capacitor kits for this machine

Console5 sells ready-made capacitor kits. Kits come in different versions, so match the board number in the kit name to yours and check the listing before you buy.

• Nintendo Gamecube SMD Cap Kit NTSC And PAL

Skip the sourcing

• Ready-made kit: Amazon · eBay
• Already recapped: Amazon · eBay

While you are in there

• Need the machine itself?: Amazon · eBay
• A box of spare capacitors: Amazon · eBay

Affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. These links only search by name. Disclosure

Step by step

1. Photograph both sides of the board before you touch anything. Zoom in on every capacitor. The photo is your map when you are three hours in.
2. Unplug it, take out the batteries and let it sit. Old power supplies and CRT parts can hold a charge. If your machine has a tube, leave the tube and its board to a professional.
3. Open it up and keep the screws sorted. A muffin tin or an egg carton works. Different screws go in different holes, and the holes never forgive you.
4. Look for leaks. Clean any sticky residue off with isopropyl alcohol and a soft brush. A leaked capacitor leaves brown crust and can eat copper traces. Look at the traces under it, not only the part itself.
5. Mark the polarity of every capacitor on the photo before it comes off. On an electrolytic, the stripe marks the negative leg. The board usually shows a half-shaded circle or a bar for the same spot.
6. Remove the old capacitors one at a time. Surface mount: add fresh solder to both ends and rock the part off, or use flux and a low-melt alloy. Through-hole: heat one leg at a time and clear the hole with wick or a pump.
7. Clean the pads and check for lifted pads or damaged traces. Clean flux off with isopropyl. A bad pad needs a jumper wire, not hope.
8. Fit and solder the new capacitor, matching polarity. Same capacity, same or higher voltage, and it has to physically fit. Work from the smallest parts up.
9. Clean the flux off and look at every joint. A good joint is shiny and shaped like a tiny volcano. A dull blob or a ball is a cold joint: reflow it.
10. With a multimeter, check for shorts across the power rails before you power it on. Use the continuity or resistance setting. A reading near zero means stop and look for a solder bridge.
11. Power it up and test everything: video, sound, controls, the lot. If something is wrong, check polarity first. It is the most common mistake and the easiest fix.

Tools

• Temperature-controlled soldering station. Steady heat so you do not cook pads. Most recaps are done between 320 and 350 C. Top: Hakko FX-951 · Mid: Hakko FX-888D · Budget: Pinecil
• Good solder. Rosin-core 63/37 flows and looks right. It is cheap and it matters. Kester 44 63/37
• Flux. Flux is what makes old joints let go and new joints flow. MG Chemicals flux pen · Chip Quik flux syringe
• Low-melt alloy (for surface mount). Melts old solder on both ends of a surface mount part at once, so it lifts off cleanly. Chip Quik SMD1
• Desoldering tool. Clears the old solder out of through-hole pads. Top: Hakko FR-301 · Mid: Engineer SS-02 pump · Budget: Solder wick
• Fine tweezers. For holding small surface mount parts exactly where you want them. ESD-safe tweezers
• Board holder. A third hand for the board, so both of yours are free. PanaVise circuit board holder
• Magnification. You cannot fix what you cannot see. Surface mount parts are tiny. Top: Stereo microscope · Mid: Head visor · Budget: Lighted magnifier
• Multimeter. Continuity, shorts and rail voltages. The one test that saves boards. Top: Fluke 117 · Mid: Fluke 101 · Budget: AstroAI
• ESR and capacitor tester. Checks old capacitors and your new ones before they go in. Top: Peak Atlas ESR70 · Budget: LCR-T7
• Isopropyl alcohol (99%) and a brush. For cleaning leaked goo and flux. Use the high-percentage kind. MG Chemicals 99.9% isopropyl
• Brass tip cleaner. A clean tip transfers heat. A dirty one does not. Hakko 599B
• Fume extractor. Pulls the smoke away from your face. Hakko FA-400 · Budget: Small bench fan
• Precision screwdrivers. Most old gear uses a mix of Phillips, Torx and security bits. iFixit Pro Tech Toolkit
• Kapton tape. Heat-proof tape to protect parts that sit close to the one you are changing. Kapton tape

Safety

• Good airflow, or a fume fan. Solder smoke is not for breathing.
• Safety glasses on. Solder spits and clipped legs fly.
• Iron in its stand when you are not holding it. Know where the cord is.
• Touch bare metal first, or use a wrist strap. Static kills old chips.
• No tube, no mains power supply. Leave those to a professional.
• Wash your hands after, especially if you used leaded solder.

Values are shown as published in the guides above, and boards changed during production. Check the board in front of you. A recap involves hot tools and, on some machines, dangerous voltages. You do it at your own risk.

More

• All recap guides
• The interactive Recap Bench
• Fix a dead vintage computer
• Nintendo GameCube (Japan) on the timeline
• Nintendo GameCube (Europe) on the timeline