Recap guide
Recap the Atari Lynx
A classic cap-failure handheld: failing power-circuit caps are blamed for no power, flicker, display problems and crackly sound, and leaks can damage the board.
Open the interactive checklist Tick off each capacitor as you replace it. It saves in your browser.
Worth a recap. Reports say it is a common and useful fix on this machine.
Which board do I have?
Boards changed during production. These notes come from the linked sources, and many are only partly documented, so check the board in front of you.
- Lynx Model 1 (1989-1991) (Medium confidence). How to tell: Wider body, mono audio and a shorter battery life; ConsoleMods says its board has revisions with no external effect. Capacitors: K-Retro sells a Lynx 1 kit of 16 electrolytics (4x 10uF 6.3V, 3x 47uF 6.3V, 220uF 6.3V, 470uF 10V, 2x 10uF 35V, 100uF 35V, 2x 1uF 50V, 2x 2.2uF 50V); an AtariAge poster uses C39 and C50 as the Lynx 1 power test points. Capacitor list differs from other revisions: not known. Source
- Lynx Model 2 (1991-1995) (Low confidence). How to tell: Smaller, stereo audio (Hayato chip) and a power LED. Capacitors: K-Retro sells a separate Lynx 2 kit (no list seen), an AtariAge poster uses C41 and C40 as the Lynx 2 equivalents and says the power stage is otherwise identical, and a DragonBox service uses one polymer and ceramic kit for both. Capacitor list differs from other revisions: not known. Source
Where to start
Clues from write-ups and forum threads, not a diagnosis. Low confidence means one thread or one repair; high means several write-ups agree.
- Kit symptoms (Low confidence). A Lynx 1 and 2 power-circuit kit page lists the symptoms and says the kit also adds a voltage regulator. It was out of stock when we checked. Source
- Lynx 1 kit (Low confidence). One seller says its Lynx 1 kit has 16 caps across six value and voltage groups, with a component map included. The Lynx 2 kit is sold separately. Source
- One-cap fix (Low confidence). An older iFixit student guide re-solders a single defective capacitor (C10). It is not a full recap. Source
Tips, tales and maybes
Found in write-ups and forum threads. These are other people's reports, not tested by us. Check part references and values against your own board.
- Tip: C3 under the RF shield (Medium confidence). A Lynx recap and LCD article says C3 sits inside the RF shield with a copper sheet over its contacts on the far side, so it needs solder wick and extra desoldering on both sides. It also warns that the power MOSFET and zener can fail and take the motherboard with them, and says to confirm about 5V out before reassembly. Source
- Story: Two dead Lynx 2 after part swapping (Low confidence). After swapping parts between two Lynx 2 units, both stayed dead, and replies said to check that the voltage at C41 (regulator output) is 5V or less and to inspect the scratched flex ribbon. They also noted that screens are not always interchangeable between units and that overvoltage can kill an LCD. Source
- Maybe: Stuck at title screen after full recap (Low confidence). A Lynx II stuck at the title screen with no sound did not improve after replacing all caps, the Console5 voltage-refresh parts and the power jack. A reply guessed the 4464-type RAM chips, which differ from Lynx I, were at fault. Source
- Story: Dim Lynx II screen (Low confidence). One Lynx II had a dull screen visible only tilted back with contrast up, then white after long use, and the fixes discussed were a cap kit, an LCD mod and a speaker swap. One poster warned that recapping after a McWill mod is harder because the display is no longer detachable, and said the shield tabs need desoldering from both sides. Source
- Watch out: Short to ground after recap (Low confidence). One owner's Lynx would not power up after a full recap, a power-refresh kit and an LCD mod, with a suspected 5V to ground short. Putting the old caps back and lifting cap legs did not isolate it, so the poster planned to look under the shield by the cartridge connector, which the recap never touched. Source
Before you start
- Boards changed during production. Check your board number against the guides before you order parts.
Circuits 1
Circuits we redrew in one plain style, with the parts listed. Our own drawing from the source diagram, so check it against the original before you build anything.
Power comes in at the jack J3, through the choke L14 and D11 to the + rail, or from six AA cells on the battery connector. D9, D10 and a 0.01 µF capacitor protect and filter the input. A divider of 100 kΩ and 390 kΩ gives an “AC connected” sense line. The ON and OFF buttons are on the ribbon cable: pressing ON joins ribbon pin 6 (TP17) to pin 7 (TP18) through about 100 Ω, and pressing OFF joins pin 7 to pin 14, which is +5 V. The 4069 inverter chip U6 holds the on/off state in a latch (pins 13, 12, 11 and 10 with R70, C38 and R69). Its other gates, with Q8, R72, C43 and R73, form an oscillator, and two gates in parallel (pins 6 and 8) drive the gate of Q12. Q12 switches the − side of the supply into the inductor L13, with a 1N5817 diode back to the + rail and the output capacitors C41, C44 and 0.022 µF. A switch, an inductor, a diode and an output capacitor like this is a step-down converter. R74, ZD13 and TP19 sit beside Q8. That is our reading of the drawing, so check it against Console5’s page before you build or repair anything.
| Qty | Part |
|---|---|
| 1 | Power jack J3 Pins 1, 2 and 3 as on the drawing. Pin 2 is the contact that closes against pin 3 when no plug is in; we have not confirmed that, so check the scan. |
| 1 | Choke L14 Two windings. The drawing gives no value. |
| 1 | 100 kΩ resistor Top of the “AC connected” divider. No designator on the drawing. |
| 1 | 390 kΩ resistor Bottom of the divider. No designator on the drawing. |
| 1 | 1N4001 diode D11 Jack to the + rail. |
| 1 | Choke or inductor L16 The drawing gives no value. |
| 1 | 1N4001 diode D10 Across the battery’s − side and the rail. |
| 1 | 6 AA battery holder Marked BATTERY 6AA, on a two-pin connector. |
| 1 | 1N4001 diode D9 Across the + and − rails. |
| 1 | 0.01 µF capacitor Across the rails, next to D9. No designator on the drawing. |
| 1 | 0.01 µF capacitor C36 Between the + rail and the base of Q7. |
| 1 | 47 kΩ resistor R67 From the base of Q7 to ground. |
| 1 | 2N3906 transistor Q7 PNP. Its collector goes to the “power on” line. |
| 1 | OFF button Joins ribbon pin 7 / TP18 to ribbon pin 14 (+5 V). |
| 1 | ON button Joins ribbon pin 6 / TP17 to ribbon pin 7 / TP18, about 100 Ω. |
| 1 | 270 kΩ resistor R68 TP17 node to the − rail. |
| 1 | 1 µF 50 V electrolytic C34 TP17 node to the − rail. |
| 1 | 4069 hex inverter U6 Pin 14 on the + rail, pin 7 on the − rail. Six gates, all used. |
| 1 | 100 kΩ resistor R70 Between pins 12 and 11. |
| 1 | 0.01 µF capacitor C38 Pin 11 to the − rail. |
| 1 | 100 kΩ resistor R69 From pin 10 back to pin 13. |
| 1 | 2N3906 transistor Q8 PNP, emitter on the + rail. |
| 1 | 4.7 kΩ resistor R72 In series with C43 to the + rail. |
| 1 | 560 pF capacitor C43 In series with R72. |
| 1 | 2200 pF capacitor From the + rail to the gate-drive node. No designator on the drawing. |
| 1 | 10 kΩ resistor R73 Between the pin 1 node and the latch output (pin 10). |
| 1 | 120 Ω resistor R74 + rail to the TP19 node. |
| 1 | 1N5991B zener diode ZD13 TP19 node to ground. |
| 1 | 100 kΩ resistor R71 Gate of Q12 to the − rail. |
| 1 | MTD3055 transistor Q12 Drawn as a box here. Gate, drain and source only. |
| 1 | 100 µF electrolytic C39 + rail to − rail. |
| 1 | 1N5817 Schottky diode No designator on the drawing. |
| 1 | 100 µH inductor L13 Between the switching node and the output ground. |
| 1 | 470 µF 10 V electrolytic C41 Output. |
| 1 | 0.022 µF capacitor Output. No designator on the drawing. |
| 1 | 0.1 µF capacitor C44 Output. |
| 1 | 4.7 kΩ resistor R75 Output. |
We read the wiring from a small, low-resolution scan. Check these first: the direction of D10 and D11, the jack pin 2 and pin 3 wiring around L14 and L16 (a wire crosses the L16 wire without joining it), and the GND symbols, which we have drawn as the source shows them without claiming they are one net. The drawing gives no values for L14 and L16, and Q12 is shown as a box.
Redrawn by us from the Lynx II power schematic on Console5.
Guides we used
This page and the interactive bench are built from these. They have the photos and the full detail, so please read them and support their authors.
- Replacing an Atari Capacitor (Lynx C10) (Step-by-step) by John Lopez (Cal Poly student team) on iFixit. Short, clear teardown and re-solder of one capacitor (C10). Not a full recap and older student guide
- Lynx 1+2 polymer/ceramic capacitor and regulator kit (Kit page) by DragonBox. Covers Lynx 1 and 2 power-circuit recap, lists symptoms; says the kit also adds a voltage regulator. Listed out of stock when checked; no value table
- Capacitor replacement kit for Atari Lynx 1 (Kit page) by K-Retro. States 16 caps across six value/voltage groups and that a component map ships with it; the table itself is not on the page. Lynx 2 kit is sold separately
Lynx I, typical revision (Atari part number not given)
Fifteen capacitors. Console5 says some Lynx have 63 V parts at C19 and C20 but only 50 V is needed.
| Part | Value | Volts | Type |
|---|---|---|---|
| C07 | 10 µF | 6.3 V | check your board |
| C08 | 1 µF | 50 V | check your board |
| C09 | 47 µF | 6.3 V | check your board |
| C10 | 47 µF | 6.3 V | check your board |
| C11 | 220 µF | 6.3 V | check your board |
| C19 Some units have 63 V parts here. Only 50 V is needed. | 2.2 µF | 50 V | check your board |
| C20 Some units have 63 V parts here. Only 50 V is needed. | 2.2 µF | 50 V | check your board |
| C23 | 10 µF | 35 V | check your board |
| C25 | 10 µF | 6.3 V | check your board |
| C26 | 10 µF | 6.3 V | check your board |
| C29 | 10 µF | 35 V | check your board |
| C38 | 100 µF | 35 V | check your board |
| C39 | 470 µF | 10 V | check your board |
| C42 | 10 µF | 6.3 V | check your board |
| C75 | 1 µF | 50 V | check your board |
| C76 | 47 µF | 6.3 V | check your board |
Lynx I board C103949-001 Rev 1 / 2
Console5 says the 10 uF 25 V parts can be 16 V instead, since only 6.3 V is needed.
| Part | Value | Volts | Type |
|---|---|---|---|
| C7 | 10 µF | 25 V | check your board |
| C8 | 1 µF | 50 V | check your board |
| C9 | 47 µF | 6.3 V | check your board |
| C10 | 47 µF | 6.3 V | check your board |
| C11 | 220 µF | 6.3 V | check your board |
| C19 | 2.2 µF | 50 V | check your board |
| C20 | 2.2 µF | 50 V | check your board |
| C23 | 10 µF | 35 V | check your board |
| C25 | 10 µF | 25 V | check your board |
| C26 | 10 µF | 25 V | check your board |
| C29 | 10 µF | 35 V | check your board |
| C34 | 1 µF | 50 V | check your board |
| C38 | 100 µF | 25 V | check your board |
| C39 | 470 µF | 10 V | check your board |
| C42 | 10 µF | 25 V | check your board |
Lynx II board C104471-001 Rev A
Twenty capacitors.
| Part | Value | Volts | Type |
|---|---|---|---|
| C03 | 10 µF | 6.3 V | check your board |
| C11 | 10 µF | 6.3 V | check your board |
| C14 | 47 µF | 6.3 V | check your board |
| C16 | 1 µF | 50 V | check your board |
| C19 | 47 µF | 6.3 V | check your board |
| C21 | 220 µF | 6.3 V | check your board |
| C23 | 10 µF | 35 V | check your board |
| C25 | 10 µF | 35 V | check your board |
| C27 | 10 µF | 6.3 V | check your board |
| C28 | 10 µF | 6.3 V | check your board |
| C32 | 2.2 µF | 50 V | check your board |
| C33 | 2.2 µF | 50 V | check your board |
| C37 | 1 µF | 50 V | check your board |
| C39 | 100 µF | 35 V | check your board |
| C41 | 470 µF | 10 V | check your board |
| C47 | 1 µF | 50 V | check your board |
| C53 | 47 µF | 6.3 V | check your board |
| C58 | 1 µF | 50 V | check your board |
| C60 | 47 µF | 6.3 V | check your board |
| C64 | 220 µF | 6.3 V | check your board |
Shopping list
51 capacitors in all, grouped by value. Buy a few spares.
- 9 x 47 µF, 6.3 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
- 8 x 1 µF, 50 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
- 8 x 10 µF, 6.3 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
- 6 x 2.2 µF, 50 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
- 6 x 10 µF, 35 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
- 4 x 10 µF, 25 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
- 4 x 220 µF, 6.3 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
- 3 x 470 µF, 10 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
- 2 x 100 µF, 35 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
- 1 x 100 µF, 25 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
Console5 capacitor kits for this machine
Console5 sells ready-made capacitor kits. Kits come in different versions, so match the board number in the kit name to yours and check the listing before you buy.
Skip the sourcing
While you are in there
Affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. These links only search by name. Disclosure
Step by step
- Photograph both sides of the board before you touch anything. Zoom in on every capacitor. The photo is your map when you are three hours in.
- Unplug it, take out the batteries and let it sit. Old power supplies and CRT parts can hold a charge. If your machine has a tube, leave the tube and its board to a professional.
- Open it up and keep the screws sorted. A muffin tin or an egg carton works. Different screws go in different holes, and the holes never forgive you.
- Look for leaks. Clean any sticky residue off with isopropyl alcohol and a soft brush. A leaked capacitor leaves brown crust and can eat copper traces. Look at the traces under it, not only the part itself.
- Mark the polarity of every capacitor on the photo before it comes off. On an electrolytic, the stripe marks the negative leg. The board usually shows a half-shaded circle or a bar for the same spot.
- Remove the old capacitors one at a time. Surface mount: add fresh solder to both ends and rock the part off, or use flux and a low-melt alloy. Through-hole: heat one leg at a time and clear the hole with wick or a pump.
- Clean the pads and check for lifted pads or damaged traces. Clean flux off with isopropyl. A bad pad needs a jumper wire, not hope.
- Fit and solder the new capacitor, matching polarity. Same capacity, same or higher voltage, and it has to physically fit. Work from the smallest parts up.
- Clean the flux off and look at every joint. A good joint is shiny and shaped like a tiny volcano. A dull blob or a ball is a cold joint: reflow it.
- With a multimeter, check for shorts across the power rails before you power it on. Use the continuity or resistance setting. A reading near zero means stop and look for a solder bridge.
- Power it up and test everything: video, sound, controls, the lot. If something is wrong, check polarity first. It is the most common mistake and the easiest fix.
Tools
- Temperature-controlled soldering station. Steady heat so you do not cook pads. Most recaps are done between 320 and 350 C. Top: Hakko FX-951 · Mid: Hakko FX-888D · Budget: Pinecil
- Good solder. Rosin-core 63/37 flows and looks right. It is cheap and it matters. Kester 44 63/37
- Flux. Flux is what makes old joints let go and new joints flow. MG Chemicals flux pen · Chip Quik flux syringe
- Low-melt alloy (for surface mount). Melts old solder on both ends of a surface mount part at once, so it lifts off cleanly. Chip Quik SMD1
- Desoldering tool. Clears the old solder out of through-hole pads. Top: Hakko FR-301 · Mid: Engineer SS-02 pump · Budget: Solder wick
- Fine tweezers. For holding small surface mount parts exactly where you want them. ESD-safe tweezers
- Board holder. A third hand for the board, so both of yours are free. PanaVise circuit board holder
- Magnification. You cannot fix what you cannot see. Surface mount parts are tiny. Top: Stereo microscope · Mid: Head visor · Budget: Lighted magnifier
- Multimeter. Continuity, shorts and rail voltages. The one test that saves boards. Top: Fluke 117 · Mid: Fluke 101 · Budget: AstroAI
- ESR and capacitor tester. Checks old capacitors and your new ones before they go in. Top: Peak Atlas ESR70 · Budget: LCR-T7
- Isopropyl alcohol (99%) and a brush. For cleaning leaked goo and flux. Use the high-percentage kind. MG Chemicals 99.9% isopropyl
- Brass tip cleaner. A clean tip transfers heat. A dirty one does not. Hakko 599B
- Fume extractor. Pulls the smoke away from your face. Hakko FA-400 · Budget: Small bench fan
- Precision screwdrivers. Most old gear uses a mix of Phillips, Torx and security bits. iFixit Pro Tech Toolkit
- Kapton tape. Heat-proof tape to protect parts that sit close to the one you are changing. Kapton tape
Safety
- Good airflow, or a fume fan. Solder smoke is not for breathing.
- Safety glasses on. Solder spits and clipped legs fly.
- Iron in its stand when you are not holding it. Know where the cord is.
- Touch bare metal first, or use a wrist strap. Static kills old chips.
- No tube, no mains power supply. Leave those to a professional.
- Wash your hands after, especially if you used leaded solder.
Values are shown as published in the guides above, and boards changed during production. Check the board in front of you. A recap involves hot tools and, on some machines, dangerous voltages. You do it at your own risk.