Recap guide

Recap the Macintosh LC and Performa 450

'030-era SMD electrolytics leak on the logic board, and the LC III and Performa 450 have a cap installed against its marking that matters when recapping.

Open the interactive checklist Tick off each capacitor as you replace it. It saves in your browser.

Worth a recap. Reports say it is a common and useful fix on this machine.

Which board do I have?

Boards changed during production. These notes come from the linked sources, and many are only partly documented, so check the board in front of you.

• LC and LC II (Medium confidence). How to tell: Original LC and LC II. Capacitors: C22 (47uF 16V, -5V rail) is installed the right way round on these. Capacitor list differs from other revisions: not known. Source
• LC III and Performa 450, 460, 466, 467 (High confidence). How to tell: Models listed by the article. Capacitors: C22 47uF 16V was soldered reversed with a wrong silkscreen; tantalum swaps reduce the -5V rail, so fit it opposite the marking. Capacitor list differs from other revisions: yes. Source
• LC 475 supply Dyna Comp DCF-353 (Apple 614-0028) (Medium confidence). How to tell: Dyna Comp DCF-353, Apple part 614-0028. Capacitors: C19 and C20 1000uF 10V, C18 2200uF 10V, C15 330uF 35V, C16, C21, C22 82uF 35V, C9 33uF 35V, C26 10uF 35V, C7 180uF 400V. Capacitor list differs from other revisions: not known. Source

Where to start

Clues from write-ups and forum threads, not a diagnosis. Low confidence means one thread or one repair; high means several write-ups agree.

• Backwards C22 (Medium confidence). An article explains that Apple installed C22 (the -5V bulk cap) against its silkscreen on the LC III and Performa 450/460/466/467. It warns that reversed C22 or tantalum replacements can fail dangerously. Source
• LC III recap experience (Low confidence). One first-hand LC III recap ran into lifted traces and a hard-to-find 385V PSU cap. Source
• LC 475 supply (Low confidence). A thread gives part values for the Dyna Comp DCF 353 supply (Apple part 614-0028) and a kit tip. Source

Tips, tales and maybes

Found in write-ups and forum threads. These are other people's reports, not tested by us. Check part references and values against your own board.

• Tip: What a backwards C22 looks like (Medium confidence). The article says C22 (the -5V cap) was fitted backwards at the factory with a wrong silkscreen, so its positive terminal goes to ground. With a tantalum fitted the way the silkscreen shows, the -5V rail read about -2.3V with about 1.3A drawn and a risk of fire. It suggests checking continuity unpowered, then voltage powered. Source

Before you start

• Boards changed during production. Check your board number against the guides before you order parts.

Guides we used

This page and the interactive bench are built from these. They have the photos and the full detail, so please read them and support their authors.

• The capacitor that Apple soldered incorrectly at the factory (Write-up) by Doug Brown (Downtown Doug Brown). Must-read before recapping an LC III or Performa 450-467: reverse C22 or tantalum replacements can fail dangerously
• Macintosh LCIII (Forum) by TinkerDifferent forum. First-hand LC III recap including lifted traces and a note on a hard-to-find 385V cap in the PSU
• Macintosh LC 475-recap PSU Dyna Comp DCF 353 (Apple part 614-0028) (List) by TinkerDifferent forum. Has a capacitor list. Part values for the DCF 353 power supply with a kit tip

LC logic board 630-0309

Fifteen capacitors. C9 is a 47 uF part on most boards but a large leaded 2200 uF 16 V on some revisions, so look at yours before ordering.

LC II logic board 820-0327-A

Seventeen capacitors.

LC III logic board 820-0650-A / 820-0650-B

Eleven capacitors. Console5 warns that C22 is fitted backwards at the factory (Apple soldered it the wrong way round) and should be reversed when you replace it.

Astec AA16250 power supply

Console5 says this revision looks rushed to production, with X and Y safety caps haphazardly fitted, two of them soldered straight to the mains plug. These Y-class caps (2200 pF 250 V, and 4700 pF or 1000 pF on the plug) are likely RIFA types and should be replaced, but they are not in this electrolytic list. Mains power supply: unplug it and let it discharge first.

Astec AA16251 power supply

Console5 lists the primary capacitor with no reference number. Mains power supply: unplug it and let it discharge first.

Astec AA19140 power supply

Mains power supply: unplug it and let it discharge first.

Dyna Comp DCF 353 / 614-0028 power supply

Ten capacitors. Mains power supply: unplug it and let it discharge first.

Dyna Comp DCF 704 power supply

Seventeen capacitors. Mains power supply: unplug it and let it discharge first.

TDK 614-0003 / 699-0153 power supply

Console5 writes the voltage of C5 oddly (385 uF for a 180 uF part), which is almost certainly 385 V. It also says its kits may use a 10 uF power-supply-grade part in place of the 8.2 uF at C8. Mains power supply: unplug it and let it discharge first.

Shopping list

108 capacitors in all, grouped by value. Buy a few spares.

• 23 x 10 µF, 16 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 15 x 47 µF, 16 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 7 x 1000 µF, 10 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 6 x 47 µF, 35 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 6 x 2200 µF, 10 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 5 x 82 µF, 35 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 4 x 180 µF, 400 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 4 x 1200 µF, 16 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 3 x 1 µF, 50 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 3 x 100 µF, 6.3 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 3 x 330 µF, 35 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 3 x 1200 µF, 10 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 3 x 1800 µF, 10 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 2 x 47 µF, 25 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 2 x 120 µF, 10 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 2 x 120 µF, 25 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 2 x 270 µF, 25 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 2 x 470 µF, 16 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 1 x 8.2 µF, 50 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 1 x 10 µF, 35 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 1 x 33 µF, 35 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 1 x 47 µF, 10 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 1 x 56 µF, 50 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 1 x 56 µF, 25 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 1 x 100 µF, 10 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 1 x 180 µF, 385 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 1 x 220 µF, 16 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 1 x 220 µF, 35 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 1 x 270 µF, 400 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 1 x 270 µF, 10 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 1 x 1000 µF, 16 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay

Console5 capacitor kits for this machine

Console5 sells ready-made capacitor kits. Kits come in different versions, so match the board number in the kit name to yours and check the listing before you buy.

• Macintosh LC SMD Tantalum Main PCB Cap Kit
• Macintosh LC II SMD Tantalum Main PCB Cap Kit LC2 LC II
• Macintosh LC III SMD Tantalum Main PCB Cap Kit LC3 LC III
• Macintosh LC Power Supply Cap Kit Astec AA16250
• Macintosh LC Power Supply Cap Kit Astec AA16251
• Macintosh LC Power Supply Cap Kit Astec AA19140
• Macintosh LC Power Supply Cap Kit Dynacomp DCF353 614 0028 Dyna Comp
• Macintosh LC Power Supply Cap Kit Dynacomp DCF704 Dcf 704 Dyna Comp
• Macintosh LC Power Supply Cap Kit TDK 614 0003

Skip the sourcing

• Ready-made kit: Amazon · eBay
• Already recapped: Amazon · eBay

While you are in there

• Need the machine itself?: Amazon · eBay
• A box of spare capacitors: Amazon · eBay

Affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. These links only search by name. Disclosure

Step by step

1. Photograph both sides of the board before you touch anything. Zoom in on every capacitor. The photo is your map when you are three hours in.
2. Unplug it, take out the batteries and let it sit. Old power supplies and CRT parts can hold a charge. If your machine has a tube, leave the tube and its board to a professional.
3. Open it up and keep the screws sorted. A muffin tin or an egg carton works. Different screws go in different holes, and the holes never forgive you.
4. Look for leaks. Clean any sticky residue off with isopropyl alcohol and a soft brush. A leaked capacitor leaves brown crust and can eat copper traces. Look at the traces under it, not only the part itself.
5. Mark the polarity of every capacitor on the photo before it comes off. On an electrolytic, the stripe marks the negative leg. The board usually shows a half-shaded circle or a bar for the same spot.
6. Remove the old capacitors one at a time. Surface mount: add fresh solder to both ends and rock the part off, or use flux and a low-melt alloy. Through-hole: heat one leg at a time and clear the hole with wick or a pump.
7. Clean the pads and check for lifted pads or damaged traces. Clean flux off with isopropyl. A bad pad needs a jumper wire, not hope.
8. Fit and solder the new capacitor, matching polarity. Same capacity, same or higher voltage, and it has to physically fit. Work from the smallest parts up.
9. Clean the flux off and look at every joint. A good joint is shiny and shaped like a tiny volcano. A dull blob or a ball is a cold joint: reflow it.
10. With a multimeter, check for shorts across the power rails before you power it on. Use the continuity or resistance setting. A reading near zero means stop and look for a solder bridge.
11. Power it up and test everything: video, sound, controls, the lot. If something is wrong, check polarity first. It is the most common mistake and the easiest fix.

Tools

• Temperature-controlled soldering station. Steady heat so you do not cook pads. Most recaps are done between 320 and 350 C. Top: Hakko FX-951 · Mid: Hakko FX-888D · Budget: Pinecil
• Good solder. Rosin-core 63/37 flows and looks right. It is cheap and it matters. Kester 44 63/37
• Flux. Flux is what makes old joints let go and new joints flow. MG Chemicals flux pen · Chip Quik flux syringe
• Low-melt alloy (for surface mount). Melts old solder on both ends of a surface mount part at once, so it lifts off cleanly. Chip Quik SMD1
• Desoldering tool. Clears the old solder out of through-hole pads. Top: Hakko FR-301 · Mid: Engineer SS-02 pump · Budget: Solder wick
• Fine tweezers. For holding small surface mount parts exactly where you want them. ESD-safe tweezers
• Board holder. A third hand for the board, so both of yours are free. PanaVise circuit board holder
• Magnification. You cannot fix what you cannot see. Surface mount parts are tiny. Top: Stereo microscope · Mid: Head visor · Budget: Lighted magnifier
• Multimeter. Continuity, shorts and rail voltages. The one test that saves boards. Top: Fluke 117 · Mid: Fluke 101 · Budget: AstroAI
• ESR and capacitor tester. Checks old capacitors and your new ones before they go in. Top: Peak Atlas ESR70 · Budget: LCR-T7
• Isopropyl alcohol (99%) and a brush. For cleaning leaked goo and flux. Use the high-percentage kind. MG Chemicals 99.9% isopropyl
• Brass tip cleaner. A clean tip transfers heat. A dirty one does not. Hakko 599B
• Fume extractor. Pulls the smoke away from your face. Hakko FA-400 · Budget: Small bench fan
• Precision screwdrivers. Most old gear uses a mix of Phillips, Torx and security bits. iFixit Pro Tech Toolkit
• Kapton tape. Heat-proof tape to protect parts that sit close to the one you are changing. Kapton tape

Safety

• Good airflow, or a fume fan. Solder smoke is not for breathing.
• Safety glasses on. Solder spits and clipped legs fly.
• Iron in its stand when you are not holding it. Know where the cord is.
• Touch bare metal first, or use a wrist strap. Static kills old chips.
• No tube, no mains power supply. Leave those to a professional.
• Wash your hands after, especially if you used leaded solder.

Values are shown as published in the guides above, and boards changed during production. Check the board in front of you. A recap involves hot tools and, on some machines, dangerous voltages. You do it at your own risk.

More

• All recap guides
• The interactive Recap Bench
• Fix a dead vintage computer
• Macintosh LC on the timeline
• Macintosh Performa on the timeline