Recap guide

Recap the NES and Famicom

The original NES has few electrolytics. The big one is the RF modulator cap, and a wavy picture or no display is the usual symptom. Board variants differ.

Open the interactive checklist Tick off each capacitor as you replace it. It saves in your browser.

Check first. A recap is not always the answer here, so look at the guides before you order parts.

Which board do I have?

Boards changed during production. These notes come from the linked sources, and many are only partly documented, so check the board in front of you.

• Famicom HVC-CPU-01 to -08 and HVC-CPU-GPM-01/02 (1983-1993) (Low confidence). How to tell: Board code is printed on the PCB; CPU-07 is the most common and GPM boards are the final design. Capacitors: No cap list found; ConsoleMods only says GPM-02 added ceramic caps (C36) near the PPU and controller chips, and one forum post notes the Famicom RF modulator is a separate board with a similar big cap. Capacitor list differs from other revisions: not known. Source
• NES front-loader NES-CPU-01 to NES-CPU-11 (1985-1993) (Medium confidence). How to tell: Board code NES-CPU-xx is printed on the motherboard. Capacitors: A board map for NES-CPU-07 shows 3 caps (C1 100uF 6.3V, C9 2.2uF 50V, C23 1uF 50V) and says -01 to -11 are functionally identical to the launch board, while a Retro Repairs log lists the same three plus four RF/PSU module caps (C3 10uF 25V, C25 2200uF 25V, C26 100uF 16V, C29 100uF 10V) and warns production variants differ in values and locations. Capacitor list differs from other revisions: not known. Source
• NES-101 top-loader (NESN-CPU-01, NESN-CPU-JIO-01/02, NESN-CPU-AV-01, 1993-1995) (Low confidence). How to tell: Smaller top-loading console; NESN-CPU-01 is the common one. Capacitors: A NESdev poster says its caps are much smaller than the front-loader's and uses a 10 nF ceramic disc cap (not MLCC) as a bypass; a RetroSix kit seller says its kit is for front-loaders only. Capacitor list differs from other revisions: yes. Source
• AV Famicom HVCN-CPU-01 and -02 (1993-2003) (Low confidence). How to tell: Redesigned AV Famicom; -02 is the final board. Capacitors: ConsoleMods only says -02 moved cap C14 away from the heatsink area; no list found. Capacitor list differs from other revisions: not known. Source

Where to start

Clues from write-ups and forum threads, not a diagnosis. Low confidence means one thread or one repair; high means several write-ups agree.

• Wavy or missing picture (Low confidence). One forum post says a swollen 2200uF/25V cap in the RF modulator causes erratic or no picture and sound. It gives specs (2200uF, 25V, 85C) and how to spot a swollen top. Source
• Front-loader values (Medium confidence). One restoration lists mainboard and RF/PSU module values for a single front-loader variant, and the author warns variants differ. Source
• Top-loader bypass cap (Low confidence). For the top-loader, one thread says to use a 10nF ceramic disc part, not an MLCC, in a bypass position. Source

Tips, tales and maybes

Found in write-ups and forum threads. These are other people's reports, not tested by us. Check part references and values against your own board.

• Story: Wavy video: clean the connector before desoldering (Low confidence). A MIDIbox forum poster replaced the 2200uF cap in the RF section and three other electrolytics to cure wavy video, then found that thoroughly cleaning the 72-pin connector, its header and the cart helped as much or more. They also noted the shielded, multiply soldered RF section is hard to get into. Source
• Watch out: RF modulator needs a hot iron (Medium confidence). A front-loader restoration found the RF modulator and PSU module needed a high-powered iron because of the thermal mass. The author found no ready-made pack for that board and made up a list himself, and again warns that variants differ in values and positions. Source
• Tip: Rolling gray screen and buzz (Low confidence). The RacketBoy modulator-cap thread describes a rolling grey screen with a loud buzz even with no cart, which changed when the cap was tapped. The poster says not to pre-cut the new legs (bend them to fit), to leave a small gap under the cap, to use a pencil iron, to avoid forcing it out, and to discharge by pressing power and reset with the unit unplugged. Source
• Watch out: Ceramic disc caps that turn out to be MLCC (Low confidence). In the NESdev thread on a broken 10nF (marked 103) bypass cap on a NES-101, the poster found that supplier search results labelled as ceramic discs were often MLCCs on the datasheet. The moderator wanted a 10%, 100V disc part because MLCCs have higher series resistance there. Source
• Maybe: Cold-boot trouble near the reset button (NESRGB thread) (Low confidence). In a Shmups thread on a mod board in a front-loader, one poster suggested replacing the 0.47uF electrolytic near the reset button to cure cold-boot problems. Other cap suggestions there concern the mod's own reset circuit, so this applies only to modded consoles and is a poster's idea. Source

Before you start

• Boards changed during production. Check your board number against the guides before you order parts.
• A mains power supply can hold a dangerous charge. If you are not trained to work on one, have a professional do it.

Manuals and technical documents

Service manuals, schematics and datasheets for this machine, kept in our own library. Check your own board and part numbers against them.

• NOA Independent Servicer Technical Training Workbook Rev. 11-90 (Service manual)

All 1 documents for NES and Famicom in the library

Circuits 1

Circuits we redrew in one plain style, with the parts listed. Our own drawing from the source diagram, so check it against the original before you build anything.

Guides we used

This page and the interactive bench are built from these. They have the photos and the full detail, so please read them and support their authors.

• NES Capacitor Repair (RF modulator cap) (Forum) by RacketBoy forum (thread). Has a capacitor list. One-cap fix with clear specs (2200uF, 25V, 85C) and how to spot a swollen top. Old and covers only the modulator cap
• 1991 Nintendo Entertainment System repair, restoration and modification (Write-up) by Adam Wilson (Retro Repairs & Refurbs). Has a capacitor list. Lists mainboard and RF/PSU module values for one front-loader variant; author warns variants differ. Site states all rights reserved, so link only
• NES capacitor kit (RetroSix) (Kit page) by Hand Held Legend / RetroSix. Kit covers all front-loader versions, main and power board; reviews say it cures wavy lines. No parts list on the page
• Need help identifying replacement capacitor for NES (NES-101 ceramic) (Forum) by NESdev forum (thread). Has a capacitor list. Useful for the top-loader: use a ceramic disc 10nF part, not an MLCC, for that bypass position

NES-001 main board (front loader)

Only three electrolytics on the main board. The power and RF module is a separate board with its own list (see the power boards below).

NES-101 NESN-CPU-01 (top loader)

Five capacitors. The silkscreen at C13 says 1000 uF, but Console5 says only 1500 uF parts seem to have been installed.

Famicom HVC-CPU-07

Console5 lists C1 twice, once on the main board and once on the power board, and a 0.33 uF 50 V part for controller 2.

Famicom HVC-CPU-GPM-02

Console5 prints this board as HVC-GPU-GPM-02. The 10 uF at C1 can be 16 V, though 50 V is listed.

Famicom HVC-002 power adapter

One large capacitor in the wall adapter. Console5 sells an upgraded replacement.

AV Famicom HVCN-CPU-01

C14 was 1 uF 50 V in early builds, and Nintendo changed it to 47 uF later. Console5 recommends 47 uF for either.

NES power and RF module: Alps, green PCB

Console5 notes a floating capacitor on this board; any small cap from 1 to 100 uF at 16 V or more across the regulator input and ground is acceptable.

NES power and RF module: Alps, brown PCB (diode bridge)

Console5 says 25 V is fine in place of 35 V at C1 and C23.

NES power and RF module: Alps FR853 (four discrete diodes)

C1 is only on PAL units. Console5 also reports burned 10 nF ceramic discs at C34 on PAL units; that part is not in its kit.

NES power and RF module: Alps SH-SH5 / FS074

Similar to the FR853 but with a different layout and several capacitors turned around, so check the polarity marks.

NES power and RF module: Alps R22 (French RGB NES)

Console5 lists these for reference only; they are not in its NES-001 kit.

NES power and RF module: Mitsumi TDK-T12V

Six capacitors.

NES power and RF module: Mitsumi MTM-8V-0 / VIX

Console5 says a 25 V part is fine in place of 35 V at C5.

NES power and RF module: Mitsumi TDK-T31V

Console5 says one variant has a ferrite choke between the DC jack and the bridge and different capacitor numbers, and it still needs a clear photo to confirm. Check your board against the list.

Shopping list

73 capacitors in all, grouped by value. Buy a few spares.

• 16 x 1 µF, 50 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 10 x 10 µF, 16 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 8 x 2200 µF, 25 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 6 x 100 µF, 10 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 4 x 100 µF, 16 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 3 x 0.47 µF, 50 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 3 x 10 µF, 35 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 3 x 100 µF, 6.3 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 3 x 100 µF, 25 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 2 x 0.33 µF, 50 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 2 x 10 µF, 25 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 2 x 47 µF, 16 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 2 x 1000 µF, 6.3 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 1 x 0.47 µF, 16 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 1 x 2.2 µF, 50 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 1 x 10 µF, 50 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 1 x 22 µF, 16 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 1 x 47 µF, 6.3 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 1 x 220 µF, 6.3 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 1 x 1000 µF, 25 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 1 x 1500 µF, 25 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 1 x 2200 µF, 16 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay

Console5 capacitor kits for this machine

Console5 sells ready-made capacitor kits. Kits come in different versions, so match the board number in the kit name to yours and check the listing before you buy.

• Famicom Cap Kit Original Hvc 001
• Nintendo Famicom Av Cap Kit Hvc 101
• Nintendo NES Frontloader Cap Kit NES 001
• Nintendo NES Toploader Cap Kit NES 101

Skip the sourcing

• Ready-made kit: Amazon · eBay
• Already recapped: Amazon · eBay

While you are in there

• Need the machine itself?: Amazon · eBay
• A box of spare capacitors: Amazon · eBay

Affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. These links only search by name. Disclosure

Step by step

1. Photograph both sides of the board before you touch anything. Zoom in on every capacitor. The photo is your map when you are three hours in.
2. Unplug it, take out the batteries and let it sit. Old power supplies and CRT parts can hold a charge. If your machine has a tube, leave the tube and its board to a professional.
3. Open it up and keep the screws sorted. A muffin tin or an egg carton works. Different screws go in different holes, and the holes never forgive you.
4. Look for leaks. Clean any sticky residue off with isopropyl alcohol and a soft brush. A leaked capacitor leaves brown crust and can eat copper traces. Look at the traces under it, not only the part itself.
5. Mark the polarity of every capacitor on the photo before it comes off. On an electrolytic, the stripe marks the negative leg. The board usually shows a half-shaded circle or a bar for the same spot.
6. Remove the old capacitors one at a time. Surface mount: add fresh solder to both ends and rock the part off, or use flux and a low-melt alloy. Through-hole: heat one leg at a time and clear the hole with wick or a pump.
7. Clean the pads and check for lifted pads or damaged traces. Clean flux off with isopropyl. A bad pad needs a jumper wire, not hope.
8. Fit and solder the new capacitor, matching polarity. Same capacity, same or higher voltage, and it has to physically fit. Work from the smallest parts up.
9. Clean the flux off and look at every joint. A good joint is shiny and shaped like a tiny volcano. A dull blob or a ball is a cold joint: reflow it.
10. With a multimeter, check for shorts across the power rails before you power it on. Use the continuity or resistance setting. A reading near zero means stop and look for a solder bridge.
11. Power it up and test everything: video, sound, controls, the lot. If something is wrong, check polarity first. It is the most common mistake and the easiest fix.

Tools

• Temperature-controlled soldering station. Steady heat so you do not cook pads. Most recaps are done between 320 and 350 C. Top: Hakko FX-951 · Mid: Hakko FX-888D · Budget: Pinecil
• Good solder. Rosin-core 63/37 flows and looks right. It is cheap and it matters. Kester 44 63/37
• Flux. Flux is what makes old joints let go and new joints flow. MG Chemicals flux pen · Chip Quik flux syringe
• Low-melt alloy (for surface mount). Melts old solder on both ends of a surface mount part at once, so it lifts off cleanly. Chip Quik SMD1
• Desoldering tool. Clears the old solder out of through-hole pads. Top: Hakko FR-301 · Mid: Engineer SS-02 pump · Budget: Solder wick
• Fine tweezers. For holding small surface mount parts exactly where you want them. ESD-safe tweezers
• Board holder. A third hand for the board, so both of yours are free. PanaVise circuit board holder
• Magnification. You cannot fix what you cannot see. Surface mount parts are tiny. Top: Stereo microscope · Mid: Head visor · Budget: Lighted magnifier
• Multimeter. Continuity, shorts and rail voltages. The one test that saves boards. Top: Fluke 117 · Mid: Fluke 101 · Budget: AstroAI
• ESR and capacitor tester. Checks old capacitors and your new ones before they go in. Top: Peak Atlas ESR70 · Budget: LCR-T7
• Isopropyl alcohol (99%) and a brush. For cleaning leaked goo and flux. Use the high-percentage kind. MG Chemicals 99.9% isopropyl
• Brass tip cleaner. A clean tip transfers heat. A dirty one does not. Hakko 599B
• Fume extractor. Pulls the smoke away from your face. Hakko FA-400 · Budget: Small bench fan
• Precision screwdrivers. Most old gear uses a mix of Phillips, Torx and security bits. iFixit Pro Tech Toolkit
• Kapton tape. Heat-proof tape to protect parts that sit close to the one you are changing. Kapton tape

Safety

• Good airflow, or a fume fan. Solder smoke is not for breathing.
• Safety glasses on. Solder spits and clipped legs fly.
• Iron in its stand when you are not holding it. Know where the cord is.
• Touch bare metal first, or use a wrist strap. Static kills old chips.
• No tube, no mains power supply. Leave those to a professional.
• Wash your hands after, especially if you used leaded solder.

Values are shown as published in the guides above, and boards changed during production. Check the board in front of you. A recap involves hot tools and, on some machines, dangerous voltages. You do it at your own risk.

More

• All recap guides
• The interactive Recap Bench
• Fix a dead vintage computer
• Nintendo Famicom (Japan) on the timeline
• Nintendo Entertainment System (US test market) on the timeline
• Nintendo Entertainment System (US nationwide) on the timeline
• NES-101 (New-Style NES) on the timeline