Recap guide

Recap the Super NES and Super Famicom

Capacitor lists for the SNES, in several board revisions, are kept in a community repository.

Open the interactive checklist Tick off each capacitor as you replace it. It saves in your browser.

Difficulty: Easy to Medium

Which board do I have?

Boards changed during production. These notes come from the linked sources, and many are only partly documented, so check the board in front of you.

• SHVC-CPU-01 (NTSC/Japan, 1990-1992) (Medium confidence). How to tell: Largest NTSC board, with a detachable sound module. Capacitors: ConsoleMods says it has a 1000 uF filter cap at C67 (later US units dropped it); norly keeps a separate list for it, and a shmups poster found SMD C63 and C64 leaked on one and decided it needed a recap. Capacitor list differs from other revisions: yes. Source
• SNS-CPU-GPM-01 and -02 (NTSC, 1992-1994) (Medium confidence). How to tell: Smaller board with all sound hardware on the mainboard; GPM-02 is the last with a removable cartridge port. Capacitors: norly has a separate list for SNS-CPU-GPM-02; ConsoleMods says through-hole parts were reduced and SMD integration increased. Capacitor list differs from other revisions: yes. Source
• SNSP-CPU-01 and -02 (PAL, 1992-1995) (Medium confidence). How to tell: PAL board the same size as the SHVC-CPU-01. Capacitors: ConsoleMods says polarized cap C59 is prone to failure and most -02 units had it swapped for a bipolar part; norly has a combined list for -01 and -02. Capacitor list differs from other revisions: yes. Source
• SNS-CPU-RGB-01 and -02 (NTSC, 1994-1995) (Low confidence). How to tell: Carries the ROHM BA6596F S-RGB encoder, and the cartridge port is soldered in. Capacitors: No cap list found; ConsoleMods only says -02 changed the audio DAC. Capacitor list differs from other revisions: not known. Source
• SNS-CPU-APU-01 (NTSC, 1995-1996) (Low confidence). How to tell: Last three-chip board, with the S-APU sound chip and S-MIX amplifier. Capacitors: No cap list found. Capacitor list differs from other revisions: not known. Source
• SNS-CPU-1CHIP-01, -02, -03 (NTSC, 1995-1997; PAL SNSP-CPU-1CHIP-01/02; Brazil SNSM-1CHIP) (Low confidence). How to tell: Marked 1CHIP on the board; US serials begin UN3. Capacitors: No cap list found; ConsoleMods says PAL 1CHIP boards use a four-diode series instead of a bridge rectifier, and a Console5 kit seller says its kit covers SHVC-CPU-01/02, GPM, RGB, APU and 1CHIP in SMD and leaded parts. Capacitor list differs from other revisions: not known. Source
• SNN-CPU-01 / SNS-101 / SHVC-101 (1997-2003) (Low confidence). How to tell: Small rounded redesign with circular power and reset buttons, one revision. Capacitors: ConsoleMods says the Japanese version adds a 2200 uF filter cap. Capacitor list differs from other revisions: not known. Source

Where to start

Clues from write-ups and forum threads, not a diagnosis. Low confidence means one thread or one repair; high means several write-ups agree.

• Wavy lines (Low confidence). On one Super Famicom, wavy-line interference was traced to failing surface-mount power filter caps C63 and C64, and one had visibly leaked. The board revision was not stated. Source
• Do I even need a recap? (Medium confidence). RetroRGB says the SNES is not particularly known for leaky capacitors. Check for leaks before you spend the money. Source
• Dead console (Low confidence). In one repair a failed D1 reverse-protection diode caused no power. Check that diode, and the ceramic capacitors near the CPU, before you blame the electrolytics. Source

Tips, tales and maybes

Found in write-ups and forum threads. These are other people's reports, not tested by us. Check part references and values against your own board.

• Story: Wavy lines after about 20 minutes (Low confidence). In the Shmups Super Famicom thread, the wavy lines appeared after roughly 20 minutes and with a Super Everdrive cart but not original carts. Meter readings showed C63 and C64 above 20 ohms ESR, and the poster also discussed swapping the supply regulator for a 2A part and needing several power cycles after the recap before it settled. Source
• Tip: Jailbars: stack ceramics on decoupling caps (Low confidence). A Shmups thread describes a jailbar fix that solders 10uF ceramics (X7R or C0G, 6.3V minimum, 0805 or 0603) onto existing small decoupling caps, listing C5, C57, C63, C64 and C69 on 1-chip boards, C70 to C75 on 2-chip, and mainly C5 on the Jr. Results varied from near total to marginal, and one user reported black bars in some games afterwards. Source
• Watch out: Jailbars survived a full recap (Low confidence). A Super Famicom owner on the videogameperfection forum found vertical bars and buzzing only over RGB to an OSSC, and neither a full recap nor extra decoupling caps cured it. Lifting pin 3 of PPU-2 on an SNS-CPU-RGB-01 board did, a fix first documented for other board versions. Source
• Tip: Darkening with diagonal white lines (Low confidence). For a Super Famicom whose picture darkened and gained white diagonal bars over time, a reply on the same forum said to try a different power supply first (9-10V DC, at least 1A, centre negative), then recap if that does not help. Source
• Tip: 1CHIP ghosting: C11 (Medium confidence). RetroRGB describes a faint ghosting on 1CHIP consoles fixed by changing C11, just under the cartridge pins, to a 0.47uF ceramic. The write-up says it is hard to photograph and, once noticed, hard to ignore. Source
• Watch out: Star Fox glob-top cart cap (Low confidence). A RacketBoy PSA says the glob-top Star Fox cartridge has an SMD electrolytic that can dry out or leak onto the PCB, so owners should open the cart, check the revision and replace the cap with the correct part. This is a cartridge, not the console. Source
• Tip: Regulator swap and 22uF at its output (Medium confidence). RetroRGB's SNES restoration notes suggest replacing the 7805 with a 78S05, swapping a 1uF SMD cap on the regulator output circuit for 22uF, and replacing C11 for ghosting on 1CHIP and Mini units. It warns some newer regulators add vertical interference, and lists a white vertical line down the middle as a 1CHIP symptom. Source
• Watch out: Community cap lists are examples (Medium confidence). The norly capacitor-lists repository (SNES SHVC-CPU-01, SNS-CPU-GPM-02, SNSP-CPU-01/-02 and PS1 PU-18 to PU-23) says its parts, sourced from LCSC, are examples from personal experience and may contain analog mistakes. It points readers to the Console5 wiki and other repositories to cross-check before buying. Source

Before you start

• Board revision matters. Look for the numbers printed on the board (such as SNS-CPU-GPM-02).

Manuals and technical documents

Service manuals, schematics and datasheets for this machine, kept in our own library. Check your own board and part numbers against them.

• Manual Technico do Super NES Rev 01-94 (Service manual)
• PAL-SNES Schematic (Schematic)

All 2 documents for Super NES and Super Famicom in the library

Circuits 1

Circuits we redrew in one plain style, with the parts listed. Our own drawing from the source diagram, so check it against the original before you build anything.

Guides we used

This page and the interactive bench are built from these. They have the photos and the full detail, so please read them and support their authors.

• capacitor-lists (List) by norly on GitHub. A repository of capacitor lists for several consoles. Read the license in the repository before copying values.

SHVC-CPU-01 (NTSC and Japan)

Thirteen capacitors on the main board. Console5 publishes this list with surface-mount and leaded kits. Console5 gives 6 V for the 100 uF parts; a 6.3 V part is the usual one.

SNS-CPU-GPM-01 and -02 (NTSC)

Ten capacitors. The big 1000 uF at C67 is missing on North American units, so count what is on your board first.

SNS-CPU-RGB-01, -02 and SNS-CPU-APU-01 (NTSC)

Ten capacitors. Console5 prints this list under the RGB-02 board and uses it for the RGB-01 and APU-01 boards as well.

SNS-CPU-1CHIP-01, -02 and -03 (NTSC)

The same ten values as the RGB board, as published for the 1CHIP-02. C58 is missing on North American units.

SNN-CPU-01 (SNES 2 and Jr, NTSC)

Nine capacitors. Some Jr units were built with 50 V parts where 25 V is listed, probably because of a part shortage. The highest voltage on the board is 9 V from the external adapter.

SNSP-CPU-01 and -02 (PAL)

Ten capacitors. The -01 and -02 lists are the same except C59, which Console5 says should be bipolar. On the -02 it already is.

SNSP-CPU-1CHIP-01 and -02 (PAL)

Twelve capacitors on the PAL one-chip board. C59 is bipolar.

Shopping list

74 capacitors in all, grouped by value. Buy a few spares.

• 18 x 33 µF, 25 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 14 x 10 µF, 16 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 9 x 220 µF, 6.3 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 7 x 2.2 µF, 50 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 6 x 47 µF, 16 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 5 x 10 µF, 50 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 5 x 1000 µF, 25 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 4 x 100 µF, 6 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 2 x 10 µF, 25 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 2 x 47 µF, 10 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
• 2 x 2200 µF, 25 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay

Console5 capacitor kits for this machine

Console5 sells ready-made capacitor kits. Kits come in different versions, so match the board number in the kit name to yours and check the listing before you buy.

• Nintendo SNES SMD Type Cap Kit SHVC Models
• Nintendo SNES Cap Kit SHVC Models
• Nintendo SNES SMD Type Cap Kit Non SHVC Models
• SNES Cap Kit Non SHVC Models
• Nintendo SNES Mini Cap Kit SNN Models SNES 2
• PAL Super Nintendo SNES SMD Cap Kit SNSP CPU
• PAL Nintendo SNES Cap Kit SNSP CPU
• PAL Nintendo SNES Cap Kit SNSP CPU 1CHIP 01

Skip the sourcing

• Ready-made kit: Amazon · eBay
• Already recapped: Amazon · eBay

While you are in there

• Need the machine itself?: Amazon · eBay
• Games for it: Amazon · eBay
• More controllers: Amazon · eBay

Affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. These links only search by name. Disclosure

Step by step

1. Photograph both sides of the board before you touch anything. Zoom in on every capacitor. The photo is your map when you are three hours in.
2. Unplug it, take out the batteries and let it sit. Old power supplies and CRT parts can hold a charge. If your machine has a tube, leave the tube and its board to a professional.
3. Open it up and keep the screws sorted. A muffin tin or an egg carton works. Different screws go in different holes, and the holes never forgive you.
4. Look for leaks. Clean any sticky residue off with isopropyl alcohol and a soft brush. A leaked capacitor leaves brown crust and can eat copper traces. Look at the traces under it, not only the part itself.
5. Mark the polarity of every capacitor on the photo before it comes off. On an electrolytic, the stripe marks the negative leg. The board usually shows a half-shaded circle or a bar for the same spot.
6. Remove the old capacitors one at a time. Surface mount: add fresh solder to both ends and rock the part off, or use flux and a low-melt alloy. Through-hole: heat one leg at a time and clear the hole with wick or a pump.
7. Clean the pads and check for lifted pads or damaged traces. Clean flux off with isopropyl. A bad pad needs a jumper wire, not hope.
8. Fit and solder the new capacitor, matching polarity. Same capacity, same or higher voltage, and it has to physically fit. Work from the smallest parts up.
9. Clean the flux off and look at every joint. A good joint is shiny and shaped like a tiny volcano. A dull blob or a ball is a cold joint: reflow it.
10. With a multimeter, check for shorts across the power rails before you power it on. Use the continuity or resistance setting. A reading near zero means stop and look for a solder bridge.
11. Power it up and test everything: video, sound, controls, the lot. If something is wrong, check polarity first. It is the most common mistake and the easiest fix.

Tools

• Temperature-controlled soldering station. Steady heat so you do not cook pads. Most recaps are done between 320 and 350 C. Top: Hakko FX-951 · Mid: Hakko FX-888D · Budget: Pinecil
• Good solder. Rosin-core 63/37 flows and looks right. It is cheap and it matters. Kester 44 63/37
• Flux. Flux is what makes old joints let go and new joints flow. MG Chemicals flux pen · Chip Quik flux syringe
• Low-melt alloy (for surface mount). Melts old solder on both ends of a surface mount part at once, so it lifts off cleanly. Chip Quik SMD1
• Desoldering tool. Clears the old solder out of through-hole pads. Top: Hakko FR-301 · Mid: Engineer SS-02 pump · Budget: Solder wick
• Fine tweezers. For holding small surface mount parts exactly where you want them. ESD-safe tweezers
• Board holder. A third hand for the board, so both of yours are free. PanaVise circuit board holder
• Magnification. You cannot fix what you cannot see. Surface mount parts are tiny. Top: Stereo microscope · Mid: Head visor · Budget: Lighted magnifier
• Multimeter. Continuity, shorts and rail voltages. The one test that saves boards. Top: Fluke 117 · Mid: Fluke 101 · Budget: AstroAI
• ESR and capacitor tester. Checks old capacitors and your new ones before they go in. Top: Peak Atlas ESR70 · Budget: LCR-T7
• Isopropyl alcohol (99%) and a brush. For cleaning leaked goo and flux. Use the high-percentage kind. MG Chemicals 99.9% isopropyl
• Brass tip cleaner. A clean tip transfers heat. A dirty one does not. Hakko 599B
• Fume extractor. Pulls the smoke away from your face. Hakko FA-400 · Budget: Small bench fan
• Precision screwdrivers. Most old gear uses a mix of Phillips, Torx and security bits. iFixit Pro Tech Toolkit
• Kapton tape. Heat-proof tape to protect parts that sit close to the one you are changing. Kapton tape

Safety

• Good airflow, or a fume fan. Solder smoke is not for breathing.
• Safety glasses on. Solder spits and clipped legs fly.
• Iron in its stand when you are not holding it. Know where the cord is.
• Touch bare metal first, or use a wrist strap. Static kills old chips.
• No tube, no mains power supply. Leave those to a professional.
• Wash your hands after, especially if you used leaded solder.

Values are shown as published in the guides above, and boards changed during production. Check the board in front of you. A recap involves hot tools and, on some machines, dangerous voltages. You do it at your own risk.

More

• All recap guides
• The interactive Recap Bench
• Fix a dead vintage computer
• Super NES (Europe) on the timeline