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Recap guide

Recap the Commodore SX-64

In the SX-64, weak or cracked caps in the 12V supply section and around the CRT circuits are linked to a dim picture and a sagging 12V rail.

Open the interactive checklist Tick off each capacitor as you replace it. It saves in your browser.

Worth a recap. Reports say it is a common and useful fix on this machine.

Which board do I have?

Boards changed during production. These notes come from the linked sources, and many are only partly documented, so check the board in front of you.

  • SX-64 board assy 250408-01 (Low confidence). How to tell: Assy number from C64 Wiki. Capacitors: A repair article found the 12V rail drooping under load; no cap values. Capacitor list differs from other revisions: not known. Source

Where to start

Clues from write-ups and forum threads, not a diagnosis. Low confidence means one thread or one repair; high means several write-ups agree.

  • Sagging 12V rail (Low confidence). One keyboard restoration exposed a 12V rail sagging under load and a cracked filter cap, which was replaced. Source

Tips, tales and maybes

Found in write-ups and forum threads. These are other people's reports, not tested by us. Check part references and values against your own board.

  • Story: Blank screen was a stuck data line from the BASIC ROM (Low confidence). An SX-64 with a blank screen was blamed on RAM by a test cartridge, but the real fault was the BASIC ROM 901226-01 holding a data line. The author warns a dead-test flash code only shows a bus fault, not which chip causes it. Source
  • Story: Rolling screen cured by a VIC-II swap (Low confidence). An SX-64 with a rolling internal CRT and black external video was fixed by replacing a bad VIC-II after a PLA swap failed. The author notes some early ceramic VIC-IIs have a raised centre that stops a heatsink seating on the SX-64. Source

Before you start

  • Boards changed during production. Check your board number against the guides before you order parts.
  • A tube and its high-voltage circuit can hold a lethal charge. Do not open the tube, and leave the analog board to a professional.

Manuals and technical documents

Service manuals, schematics and datasheets for this machine, kept in our own library. Check your own board and part numbers against them.

All 1 documents for Commodore SX-64 in the library

Guides we used

This page and the interactive bench are built from these. They have the photos and the full detail, so please read them and support their authors.

SX-64 CPU board 250408-01

Eleven matching 10 uF 25 V parts.

PartValueVoltsType
C310 µF25 Vcheck your board
C1510 µF25 Vcheck your board
C1610 µF25 Vcheck your board
C1710 µF25 Vcheck your board
C2110 µF25 Vcheck your board
C2310 µF25 Vcheck your board
C2610 µF25 Vcheck your board
C3010 µF25 Vcheck your board
C3610 µF25 Vcheck your board
C3910 µF25 Vcheck your board
C4710 µF25 Vcheck your board

SX-64 disk control board 250410-01

Console5 notes the schematic and the real boards disagree at C31.

PartValueVoltsType
C33.3 µF16 Vcheck your board
C1810 µF25 Vcheck your board
C31 The schematic says 100 uF, but Console5 saw 1 uF on real boards.1 µF16 Vcheck your board
C3210 µF25 Vcheck your board
C3310 µF25 Vcheck your board

SX-64 I/O board 250409-01

Two matching parts.

PartValueVoltsType
C1210 µF25 Vcheck your board
C1310 µF25 Vcheck your board

SX-64 power supply 250623

Contains a 200 V primary capacitor (C7). Unplug the machine and let it discharge before you open it, and if you are not trained on mains power, leave this one to a professional.

PartValueVoltsType
C144700 µF25 Vcheck your board
C172200 µF16 Vcheck your board
C193300 µF16 Vcheck your board
C211000 µF10 Vcheck your board
C241000 µF10 Vcheck your board
C28 May be ceramic or poly.4.7 µF50 Vcheck your board
C2910 µF50 Vcheck your board
C314.7 µF50 Vcheck your board
C344.7 µF50 Vcheck your board
C4010 µF50 Vcheck your board
C11100 µF50 Vcheck your board
C7470 µF200 Vcheck your board

SX-64 monitor DEF and power regulator board 1123 / 1124 A-1

Console5 flags the 4.7 uF 160 V parts for the CJ26235-00A yoke as possibly poly, so do not replace them if so. C528 and C601 are empty. The monitor holds high voltage, so discharge it with care.

PartValueVoltsType
C401 Non-polar.1 µF50 Vcheck your board
C404 Non-polar.1 µF50 Vcheck your board
C40647 µF16 Vcheck your board
C40710 µF16 Vcheck your board
C411100 µF16 Vcheck your board
C4121000 µF25 Vcheck your board
C4130.22 µF10 Vcheck your board
C414470 µF16 Vcheck your board
C5014.7 µF25 Vcheck your board
C5074.7 µF25 Vcheck your board
C5110.47 µF50 Vcheck your board
C519 For yoke CJ26235-00A. May be poly. If so, do not replace.4.7 µF160 Vcheck your board
C520 For yoke CJ26235-00A. May be poly. If so, do not replace.4.7 µF160 Vcheck your board
C523470 µF16 Vcheck your board
C524470 µF16 Vcheck your board
C5254.7 µF160 Vcheck your board
C531100 µF16 Vcheck your board
C532100 µF16 Vcheck your board
C533 May be on the back of the board.4.7 µF25 Vcheck your board
C901100 µF35 Vcheck your board
C90347 µF25 Vcheck your board
C904470 µF35 Vcheck your board
C905470 µF35 Vcheck your board
C907 Non-polar.10 µF25 Vcheck your board
C9111 µF50 Vcheck your board
C91247 µF6.3 Vcheck your board
C9132200 µF16 Vcheck your board
C9142200 µF16 Vcheck your board

SX-64 monitor A/V board 1123 / 1124 A-2

Console5 lists two possible values at C201 and C206. The first is for the CJ26235-00A yoke and the schematic value, the other is what else it found.

PartValueVoltsType
C201 For yoke CJ26235-00A. Otherwise 2200 uF 16 V.1000 µF25 Vcheck your board
C202 Non-polar.10 µF16 Vcheck your board
C2033.3 µF25 Vcheck your board
C206 Non-polar. Schematic value. 4.7 uF is another possible value.3.3 µF50 Vcheck your board
C522 May be ceramic or poly.0.47 µF50 Vcheck your board
C602100 µF16 Vcheck your board
C60310 µF25 Vcheck your board
C604 Non-polar.1 µF50 Vcheck your board
C6053.3 µF50 Vcheck your board
C60610 µF50 Vcheck your board
C6081000 µF25 Vcheck your board
C6091 µF50 Vcheck your board
C61010 µF50 Vcheck your board
C612220 µF16 Vcheck your board
C61610 µF16 Vcheck your board

SX-64 monitor chroma board 1123 A-3

Four capacitors.

PartValueVoltsType
C303100 µF16 Vcheck your board
C3040.47 µF50 Vcheck your board
C3064.7 µF50 Vcheck your board
C31533 µF16 Vcheck your board

Shopping list

77 capacitors in all, grouped by value. Buy a few spares.

  • 18 x 10 µF, 25 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
  • 5 x 1 µF, 50 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
  • 5 x 100 µF, 16 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
  • 4 x 4.7 µF, 50 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
  • 4 x 10 µF, 50 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
  • 3 x 0.47 µF, 50 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
  • 3 x 4.7 µF, 25 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
  • 3 x 4.7 µF, 160 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
  • 3 x 10 µF, 16 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
  • 3 x 470 µF, 16 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
  • 3 x 1000 µF, 25 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
  • 3 x 2200 µF, 16 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
  • 2 x 3.3 µF, 50 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
  • 2 x 470 µF, 35 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
  • 2 x 1000 µF, 10 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
  • 1 x 0.22 µF, 10 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
  • 1 x 1 µF, 16 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
  • 1 x 3.3 µF, 16 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
  • 1 x 3.3 µF, 25 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
  • 1 x 33 µF, 16 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
  • 1 x 47 µF, 16 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
  • 1 x 47 µF, 25 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
  • 1 x 47 µF, 6.3 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
  • 1 x 100 µF, 50 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
  • 1 x 100 µF, 35 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
  • 1 x 220 µF, 16 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
  • 1 x 470 µF, 200 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
  • 1 x 3300 µF, 16 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay
  • 1 x 4700 µF, 25 V (check your board): Amazon · eBay

Console5 capacitor kits for this machine

Console5 sells ready-made capacitor kits. Kits come in different versions, so match the board number in the kit name to yours and check the listing before you buy.

Skip the sourcing

While you are in there

Affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. These links only search by name. Disclosure

Step by step

  1. Photograph both sides of the board before you touch anything. Zoom in on every capacitor. The photo is your map when you are three hours in.
  2. Unplug it, take out the batteries and let it sit. Old power supplies and CRT parts can hold a charge. If your machine has a tube, leave the tube and its board to a professional.
  3. Open it up and keep the screws sorted. A muffin tin or an egg carton works. Different screws go in different holes, and the holes never forgive you.
  4. Look for leaks. Clean any sticky residue off with isopropyl alcohol and a soft brush. A leaked capacitor leaves brown crust and can eat copper traces. Look at the traces under it, not only the part itself.
  5. Mark the polarity of every capacitor on the photo before it comes off. On an electrolytic, the stripe marks the negative leg. The board usually shows a half-shaded circle or a bar for the same spot.
  6. Remove the old capacitors one at a time. Surface mount: add fresh solder to both ends and rock the part off, or use flux and a low-melt alloy. Through-hole: heat one leg at a time and clear the hole with wick or a pump.
  7. Clean the pads and check for lifted pads or damaged traces. Clean flux off with isopropyl. A bad pad needs a jumper wire, not hope.
  8. Fit and solder the new capacitor, matching polarity. Same capacity, same or higher voltage, and it has to physically fit. Work from the smallest parts up.
  9. Clean the flux off and look at every joint. A good joint is shiny and shaped like a tiny volcano. A dull blob or a ball is a cold joint: reflow it.
  10. With a multimeter, check for shorts across the power rails before you power it on. Use the continuity or resistance setting. A reading near zero means stop and look for a solder bridge.
  11. Power it up and test everything: video, sound, controls, the lot. If something is wrong, check polarity first. It is the most common mistake and the easiest fix.

Tools

Safety

  • Good airflow, or a fume fan. Solder smoke is not for breathing.
  • Safety glasses on. Solder spits and clipped legs fly.
  • Iron in its stand when you are not holding it. Know where the cord is.
  • Touch bare metal first, or use a wrist strap. Static kills old chips.
  • No tube, no mains power supply. Leave those to a professional.
  • Wash your hands after, especially if you used leaded solder.

Values are shown as published in the guides above, and boards changed during production. Check the board in front of you. A recap involves hot tools and, on some machines, dangerous voltages. You do it at your own risk.

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